In the days of the big passenger ships, Fremantle was known as the gateway to Australia. Along came jet travel and the gate all but closed. Then in 1987 the port city became the centre of world attention during the Australian defense of the America's Cup.

Happily, today it has retained all of its old charm: its situation at the mouth of the Swan River, its picturesque old buildings, its cultural diversity and what its longtime residents still call the Fremantle feeling. This sets it apart from the capital, Perth. The feeling comes upon you when you cross the bridge over the Swan River from the northern suburbs; pass historic Cantonment Hill from the east or (ideally) drift down river from Perth in a pleasure boat.

In hard-and-fast terms, Fremantle is once again a busy port, host to a big fishing fleet as well as container ships and, in recent years, the occasional big cruise vessel. It maintains a vibrant commercial life closely related to its new image as a desirable tourist destination. However, it has retained its cosmopolitan nature and preserved its identity, largely through the good sense and dedication of its modern-day civic fathers.

In a few square kilometres, it would be hard to find a bigger variety of sights, sounds and experiences. And they can be encompassed comfortably on foot. Perhaps a visit should begin, mid-morning, with a coffee or a locally brewed beer on South Terrace, sometimes called Cappuccino Strip for its outdoor-cafe atmosphere. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays (and public holidays), a stroll through the venerable Fremantle Markets, also on South Terrace, will produce anything from potted shrimp to a 78 record to a busker wearing a boater.